I looked further and found that a UV specific lamp is not necessary. Here is my exposure lamp:
This is 15$ work of parts: 1/2" PVC, 10" clamp light, 6500K Daylight CFL bulb.
I cut a piece of copper clad and applied the photo resist film. I wanted to run it through my laminator but it appeared too thick. I grabbed our iron and set it to NYLON and ironed the film on. No problems. I downloaded some PCB artwork and opened it in GIMP (love that program...) I inverted the image since it is for negative photo resist, and I flipped it horizontal. I have some transparency sheets designed for inkjet printers. These are for making window clings. I printed the PCB Image on the transparency and let it dry. I then applied the cling to a piece of glass from a picture frame. Since it was printed in reverse, the image appeared normal when viewed through the glass. I placed the glass over the copper clad. I'm optimistic since the ink is directly against the PCB Material so there SHOULDN'T be any shadows due to the thickness of the transparency.
I covered all but 1/2" of the PCB with black cardboard and did an initial exposure of 10 minutes. I moved the cardboard 1/2" every 5 minutes after that until all the PCB was exposed (about 30 minutes total.) I could immediately see the image on the PCB. Using the MG Negative developer I developed the board with great results. The exposure is 5 minutes on the left side and 30 minutes on the right. I'd say 10 - 12 minutes would be about right:
I'm excited about etching this to see the results. I'll either use the MG Ferric Chloride or the muratic acid / hydrogen peroxide method to etch this. I may try the vinegar / hydrogen peroxide / salt solution to see how that works. This looks like it will give good results.
